Billaud-Simon Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru

2021

Burghound 92-94: This is also admirably pure and exuberantly floral with its combination of spice and citrus scents that exhibit very good Chablis typicity. There is more volume and richness, as well as notably more power if not the same refinement, to the larger-scaled flavors that deliver excellent length on the firm, austere and bitter lemon rind finish. As is usually true for Les Clos, this is very much built on its minerality and is a wine that should also reward up to a decade of keeping.

2022

Burghound 91-93: Generous though not overwhelming wood influence fights somewhat with the spicy aromas of acacia blossom, wet stone and oyster shell wisps. There is excellent size, weight and mid-palate concentration to the broad-shouldered flavors that brim with minerality that is particularly apparent on the compact, youthfully austere and equally built-to-age finish.

Decanter 95: The 2022 is the first vintage to come from Billaud-Simon's plot replanted in 2018 and not harvested until now, at the eastern end of Les Clos adjacent to Blanchot. Half was matured in wood, but Bailly comments: 'Les Clos will consume the wood easily.' Great drive – amazing for just five-year-old vines. Layers of flavour with great purity. Will be worth following this as the vines gain additional age.