Château Duhart-Milon’s grand vin is often described as a model of the Pauillac appellation. The broker Guillaume Lawton noted as early as 1815 that “it is very robust, with a fine colour, and quite pronounced sappiness” (he describes the “sappiness” of the Médoc’s premiers crus as “something like the odour given off by finest sealing wax when it is burned”).
AG 93-95: The 2019 Duhart-Milon was picked from 18 September to 4 October and raised in 50% new oak. Of course, this comes from one of the coldest terroirs in Pauillac due to the orientation of the vineyard and less proportion of clay, which has become an advantage in warmer growing seasons such as this. The 70% Cabernet Sauvignon dominates the aromatics with dense black fruit, pencil shavings and tobacco aromas, traces of dark chocolate in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with spicy black fruits on the entry. This is quintessential Duhart: a bit broody, conservative in a non-pejorative use of the word, harmonious and quite sturdy towards the finish. I like this. Whilst it has no intention of being the most flamboyant Pauillac on the gravel terrace, it is imbued with nobility.
WA 94: The 2019 Duhart-Milon is showing beautifully, mingling aromas of cassis and wild berries with notions of violets, cedar wood, orange rind, licorice and spice box in a perfumed bouquet. Medium to full-bodied, supple and seamless, it's charming and refined, with a deep core of fruit, powdery tannins and succulent acids. This château is going from strength to strength.
JS 95: Aromas of currants and sweet tobacco with some lead pencil. Medium to full body with very fine tannins and a long, linear finish. Very fine, silky tannins. Pretty is the word. Direct and precise. Better in 2025 and onwards.
AG 91: The 2017 Duhart-Milon has really come together nicely with élevage. Dark and generous in the glass, the 2017 possesses terrific depth and tons of sheer appeal. Sweet tobacco, cedar, licorice, tobacco and grilled herbs add tons of Cabernet savoriness that beautifully complements the ripe dark cherry and plum fruit. The 2017 is such a gorgeous wine.
WA 91: Blended of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon and 24% Merlot, the 2017 Duhart-Milon is deep garnet-purple colored and comes tumbling freely out of the glass with open, expressive black plums, Black Forest cake and blueberry compote notes plus savory wafts of woodsmoke, beef drippings, black olives and cumin seed with an emerging touch of cassis. Medium-bodied, the palate is jam-packed with juicy black plum flavors and a plush texture, lifted by seamless freshness, finishing spicy. Nicely done.
JS 95: This is classical in style with lead pencil and sweet tobacco to the currant and plum undertones. Warm and cool at the same time. Full-bodied, tight and reserved with very polished, creamy tannins. It goes on and on. Compact, creamy texture. Try after 2023.
AG 92: The 2016 Duhart-Milon has an unusually opulent bouquet for a Pauillac, offering blackberry, raspberry coulis, sage and light cedar aromas. The medium-bodied palate offers fine tannins and well-judged acidity, though overall it comes across a little conservative and does not quite deliver the flair and finesse of the appellation’s top crus. Tasted blind at the Southwold tasting. 2022 - 2045
WA 93: Blended of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon and 33% Merlot, the 2016 Duhart-Milon has a deep garnet-purple color and features plums preserves, wild blueberries and cassis scents with touches of violets and underbrush with a waft of tobacco. Medium-bodied and elegant, with a backbone of finely grained tannins and oodles of freshness, it has a great core of perfumed black fruit, finishing on an earthy note.
JS 95: Enticing aromas of crushed berries, blackcurrants, sweet tobacco, hot stones and licorice follow through to a full body, chewy and dusty tannins and a long, flavorful finish. A juicy and savory young 2016. Try after 2024.
WA 90: Showing better than it did from cask, this soft, generous, dark ruby/purple-tinged 2007 exhibits sweet black currant fruit intermixed with cedar, roasted herbs, and subtle smoke. Round, hedonistic, and already complex, this blend of 73.5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 26.5% Merlot should drink well for 12-15 years.