
The vineyard “Colonnello” is about 40-45 years old and, to maintain it, the vines are replanted from time to time. The bouquet is redolent of dark fruit and plum, but it also shows a solid framing of iron ore and dark stony mineral. These give the wine greater lift and contoured edges.
James Suckling 96: A tight nose, but the aromas of dark-red berries and violets are very pretty. Some nice forest-floor notes blend in well. Full-bodied with very well-formed tannins that show both polish and finesse, providing a solid backbone to the wine, but without being chewy. The finish is long and controlled, guided by the super tannins. Excellent winemaking. They got the best out of the vintage here.
Wine Spectator 94: Sun-kissed hay, cherry, plum, iron and tar flavors are the highlights of this expressive red. Dense and firmly structured, with a tightly knit, tannic finish.
James Suckling 97: Freshly cut flowers with strawberry, peach and orange peel aromas that follow through to a full body with layers of velvety tannins, that have a fine texture and give a refined yet voluptuous mouthfeel. It shows class and harmony for this tannic vintage.
Vinous 92: The 2019 Barolo Colonnello from Aldo Conterno is a dark, somber wine. Black cherry, plum, mocha, spice, leather, gravel and a kiss of French oak add to an impression of gravitas. The 2019 possesses a deep core of fruit and the structure to match. Today, it is a bit imposing. A few years in bottle should do the trick.
Decanter 97: Tenuta Favot, Aldo Conterno's winery, is one of the most splendid estates in the Langhe. The Colonnello vineyard is a 45- to 50-year-old Nebbiolo in Bussia Soprana. The wine is fermented in stainless steel then aged for 28 months in 25hl Slavonian oak vessels which are replaced every five years. This 2019 has a prominent fennel and dill aroma, restrained strawberry and cherry fruit, dried flowers, and vibrant blood orange and graphite depth. Firm and crisp, it develops on the palate with super-refined, elegant and sweet tannins, and an oaky finish at the moment. Like all great wines, it could be drunk now but with more bottle ageing it will develop even more of this bracing complexity.
Wine Spectator 96: There's a youthful exuberance to this polished red, as well as a good dose of new oak that frames the core cherry and raspberry fruit with notes of vanilla and sandalwood, plus a touch of coconut. The elegance, length and vigorous structure reveal this wine's full potential.