Cantenac Brown

Wine Advocate 90+: The 2015 Cantenac Brown is medium to deep garnet-purple in color with a nose of cherry cola, cassis and warm plums with touches of spice box and pencil shavings. The medium-bodied palate sports a lot of oak, with very firm and chewy tannins and a woody finish.

James Suckling 94: The blueberries, blackberries and fresh violets come through nicely on the nose. Full body with round, juicy tannins. Hints of vanilla. Lots of ripe fruit. A little tight now. Try after 2022. Reviewed in Hong Kong Chinese Wine Tasting July 2020.

Vinous 93: The 2015 Cantenac Brown displays more red fruit compared directly with the 2016: raspberry and wild strawberry intermingled with sous-bois and tobacco, violet aromas emerging with time. Lovely focus here, though not the panache of the following vintage. The palate is beginning to loosen up with lithe tannins, fleshy and harmonious, tart red cherries, allspice and clove with a grippy and quite persistent finish that lingers in the mouth. This is a wonderful Margaux that should drink a little earlier than the 2016. Tasted at the Cantenac Brown vertical at the château.

Decanter 95: Plump fruit, rich raspberry puree and cassis flavours, layered through with chocolate and grilled cedar. This was the same score as I gave it when tasting in barrel in October 2017. Things have closed down a little since then, as this is heading into its dumb phase, but it's clearly extremely well structured and all the elements are in place for a long future. So wait to open, but this is a complex, nuanced Cantenac. 51% of production in the 1st wine, 60% new oak. Harvest September 17 to October 8.

Wine Advocate 92+: The 2018 Cantenac Brown has a medium to deep garnet-purple color, wafting gently out of the glass with fragrant scents of redcurrant jelly, Morello cherries, plum preserves and fresh blackcurrants, plus suggestions of red roses, cedar chest and pencil lead. The medium-bodied palate (13.5% declared alcohol) has a sturdy frame of grainy tannins and plenty of freshness supporting the delicately styled red and black fruit flavors, finishing savory.

James Suckling 94: Rich and polished aromas of blueberry, lavender, dark chocolate, hazelnut and sweet tobacco. It’s full-bodied with firm, velvety tannins. Creamy layers of ripe fruit and wood. Long and caressing. Lovely ripe fruit in the center palate. Try from 2024.

Vinous 94: The 2018 Cantenac Brown, which I had recently tasted as part of my horizontal, here replicates that performance. Very pure on the nose, perhaps a little more opulence than the previous bottle, this is beautifully defined with subtle tobacco scents percolating through the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied, harmonious and extra supple with great tension towards the finish. This is quintessential Margaux and a superb wine from winemaker José Sanfins. Tasted at the Cantenac Brown vertical at the château.

Decanter 94: This has a lot of elegance even though it is a powerful wine; there is a lovely lifting freshness through the palate along with ripples of blackberry and damson fruit. Just a touch of heat on the finish that dampens things down.

Wine Advocate 94+: The 2019 Cantenac Brown is a brilliant wine from José Sanfins and his team. Unwinding in the glass with deep aromas of wild berries, licorice, loamy soil, burning embers and violets, it's medium to full-bodied, seamless and layered, with terrific concentration, beautifully refined tannins and a seamless, elegant profile. Given its quality, this remains somewhat under the radar and is well worth a special effort to seek out.

James Suckling 95: This has subtle aromas of blackcurrants and blueberries with hints of just-picked violets, light vanilla, licorice and crushed stones. Forest-floor notes, too. Medium to full body, layers of firm tannins and a velvety mouth-feel. Delicious crushed berries on the palate. Compact with a firm finish. Better from 2026.

Vinous 92+: The 2019 Cantenac Brown has a fragrant and pure bouquet with blackberry, raspberry and wild heather scents, very winsome. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fleshy, and fine acidity. One of the more elegant and understated Margaux with a precise finish. I probably overlooked the nuances of this wine, which would explain my lower score than before, but I am convinced that bottle age will ensure its melioration. Tasted blind at the Southwold annual tasting.

Decanter 94: Exotic fruit touches on the nose, pineapple, mango and apricot. Characterful and alive on the palate delivering a mouthful of bright lemon and lime, creamy peach and zesty pineapple fruit with succulence and structure. Lovely energy as well as drive, you get layers of flavour and acidity tightly wrapped in the broad frame. Bold and captivating with precision and punch.

Wine Advocate 94+: A fine follow-up to the excellent 2019, the 2020 Cantenac Brown incorporates newly acquired holdings of Cabernet Sauvignon from the plateau of Margaux. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of cherries, cassis, burning embers and pencil shavings, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with good depth at the core, supple tannins and terrific purity of fruit. Concluding with a long, penetrating finish, it underlines the fact that this is the appellation's fastest-improving estate.

James Suckling 95: Plenty of blackberry, spice, iron and crushed lead pencil aromas follow through to a full body with chewy, velvety tannins and a rather cool side to it. Crushed stone and slate undertones. Try after 2026.

Wine Advocate 93-95: A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot, the 2025 Cantenac Brown unwinds in the glass with notes of crème de criss, pencil shavings and a deft touch of new oak. Medium- to full-bodied, supple and suave, with sweet, powdery tannins and a fleshy, enveloping profile, it's broad-shouldered but judiciously extracted.

James Suckling 96-97: Extremely well made, with a solid core of fruit, fine tannins, precision and tension. The new winery is really showing its substance now. Long and persistent. One of the best wines I have had from here.

Vinous 93-95: The 2025 Cantenac Brown has a lovely lift on the nose, with brambly black fruit, crushed stone and a light iris flower scent, not as intense as the Brane-Cantenac but cut from a similar cloth. The palate is medium-bodied, with fine, lace-like tannins. This Margaux is all about purity, lightly spiced, with a gentle grip on the finish. This is a classy, sophisticated Cantenac Brown.

Decanter 95: Lovely fragranced perfume aromatics with such purity and focus, elements of sticky liquorice and graphite. Smooth and so well balanced, velvety and soft tannins with a touch of cool blueberry and wet stones that linger on the mouth. Ends really cool, stony and fresh. I love the construction and the overall texture. Everything in balance. I love the intensity here, you get layers and texture and fruit with such delicacy and detail. Really a great wine in the making and I love the slightly darker edge to the fruit with some herbal, minty and liquorice spice. It’s got a really long finish too, the flavours last and last. 65% grand vin, no malolactic in barrel, no vinification intégrale. 1% Petit Verdot completes the blend. A yield of 28hl/ha.