Comte Georges de Vogue Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
Comte Georges de Vogue Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
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James Suckling 96: Plenty of red fruit character here, plus notes of wet earth, blood orange and violets. Excellent concentration for 2022 with beautifully integrated fine tannins, the fresh acidity helping to drive the long, delicately earthy finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2025.
Vinous 96: The 2021 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru exceeds my predictions from barrel. It has an exquisite bouquet with black plum and raspberry fruit, hints of iris flower and violet neatly entwined with new oak. The palate is medium- bodied with fluid tannins. Just a pinch of white pepper marries beautifully with the black fruit. Silky in texture, cohesive and gaining weight and density towards the finish, this is a serious Bonnes-Mares with ageing potential. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.
Decanter 94: This wine features spicy, intense blackberry and earth aromas, with an undercurrent of savoury notes and a smoky hint of ground coffee. This is more massive than the rest of the cellar. It remains a compellingly attractive wine, but seems more ‘Morey’ than ‘Chambolle’ in character, despite the fact that the domaine’s 2.7 hectares are clustered at the base of the slope at the southern tip of the appellation. After a careful sorting, the grapes were fermented with 50% whole clusters and the wine is currently ageing in cask.
James Suckling 98: This great Bonnes Mares starts cool and restrained, but expands rapidly as it moves over the palate, with delicate, spicy almond and cream character. Mouth-filling and generous yet subtle and light-footed, this is at the upper limit of medium-bodied. Then a huge wave of salty minerality comes through at the finish to give the wine a whole extra dimension and making this an almost overwhelming expression of beauty. Drinkable now.
Decanter 96: We tasted an assortment of barrels from the 2022 vintage: one from the southern end of Bonnes-Mares, one from the middle, and one from the north. The portion from the south showed results that are supple and elegant with a lovely fruit and impressive length. The center shows a lovely richness and density, and the sample coming from the northern end of the vineyard showed more reduction, but there was a lovely finesse and an elegant raspberry note. The blend should produce one of the wines of the vintage in this appellation.
Wine Advocate 93-94: The 2023 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru is a success, offering up aromas of cherries, sweet red berries, iris and vine smoke, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered palate that's elegantly rich and textural, with sweet tannins and a saline, perfumed finish.
Vinous 95-97: The 2023 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has an understated but fragrant bouquet, with wilted iris and violet petals infusing the detailed black and blueberry fruit. The palate is so much better than the 2022-much more intense and complex, with fine tannins and insistent grip. An assiduous touch of white pepper lingers in the mouth. Very harmonious and assured, this is a great Bonnes-Mares from de Vogüé. This is destined to give 20 years of drinking pleasure. De Vogüé's Bonnes-Mares is back.
Decanter 95: The 2023 Bonnes-Mares from de Vogüé is a lush, concentrated wine boasting ripe black plum and mulberry aromas with hints of earth, smoke, and leather. The texture is dense, ‘horizontal’ in the expression of director Jean Lupatelli. The grapes are from the domaine’s 2.7 hectares, all on the ‘terres rouges’ section of the appellation with iron-rich clay soils, which makes this a substantial wine. Cellar this for seven to 10 years before opening and enjoy over the next three decades.