Comte Georges de Vogue Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

2021

James Suckling 96: Plenty of red fruit character here, plus notes of wet earth, blood orange and violets. Excellent concentration for 2022 with beautifully integrated fine tannins, the fresh acidity helping to drive the long, delicately earthy finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2025.

Vinous 96: The 2021 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru exceeds my predictions from barrel. It has an exquisite bouquet with black plum and raspberry fruit, hints of iris flower and violet neatly entwined with new oak. The palate is medium- bodied with fluid tannins. Just a pinch of white pepper marries beautifully with the black fruit. Silky in texture, cohesive and gaining weight and density towards the finish, this is a serious Bonnes-Mares with ageing potential. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.

Decanter 94: This wine features spicy, intense blackberry and earth aromas, with an undercurrent of savoury notes and a smoky hint of ground coffee. This is more massive than the rest of the cellar. It remains a compellingly attractive wine, but seems more ‘Morey’ than ‘Chambolle’ in character, despite the fact that the domaine’s 2.7 hectares are clustered at the base of the slope at the southern tip of the appellation. After a careful sorting, the grapes were fermented with 50% whole clusters and the wine is currently ageing in cask.