Jacquesson Cuvee 740 Extra Brut

Jacquesson is a boutique – only Salon is smaller among the elite houses. Some 280,000 bottles per annum are made, nearly 78% with grapes from their own 28-ha (69-acre) estate, the rest bought in from growers they know well. Recently they restructured their supply, with much less bought in, now only from 8 ha (20 acres), reduced from nearly 20 ha (49 acres). This gives greater control over the vineyard work and a sharper focus on the terroirs reflected in the main Brut NV. It is a deliberate reduction in overall production, halving production from over 400,000 bottles 20 years ago. The 28 ha domaine comprises 11 ha (27 acres) in Avize and Oiry, some 13 ha (32 acres) spread over Aÿ, Hautvillers, Dizy and Mareuil-su-Aÿ and a further 4 ha (10 acres) in the Vallée de l'Ardre (a tributary of the Vesle, north-west of the Marne). The house has made a vast strategic turn to vintage and vineyard expression rather than house style. This 'Brut sans année' of the house is the 700 Series, begun in 2000 with the 728. Jacquesson also concentrate on singlevineyard wines and occasional Dégorgement Tardif (late-disgored) versions. The single-vineyard wines are: Corne Bautray (Dizy, Millésime) 100% Chardonnay, launched 1995; Les Terres Rouges (Dizy Rosé Millésime) 100% Pinot Noir, launched 2002; Champ Cain (Avize, Millésime) 100% Chardonnay, launched 2002; and Vauzelle Terme (Aÿ, Millésime) 100% Pinot Noir, launched 1996. No herbicides are used; devigoration and lower yields completely deliberate.