Mouton Rothschild

2020: The wine is a deep, dark, garnet-hued cherry red. The refined and complex nose opens on remarkably ripe black fruit, going on with airing to reveal aromas of blackcurrant and aniseed combined with touches of flint and a subtle hint of cigar box. From a smooth yet full-bodied attack, the palate displays highly precise tannis which strike a harmonious balance with the refinement of minty and smoky notes. Displaying mineral and black berry fruit notes, the complete and exceptionally long finish expresses all the nobility of Château Mouton Rothschild Cabernet Sauvignon.

Wine Advocate 92: Tasted at BI Wine & Spirits' 10-Years-On tasting, the 2007 Mouton-Rothschild offers classic tobacco and cigar box aromas on the nose, very well defined with black fruit unfolding in the glass. Again, like the bottle at the vertical in May last year, there is an element of Pessac-Léognan on the nose, just a hint of warm gravel. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, quite compact with a foursquare finish of blackberry, tobacco and a pinch of white pepper. Sure, it is shorter than most recent vintages, but I can see this aging with style. Tasted February 2017.

Wine Advocate 92: Tasted at the Mouton-Rothschild vertical in London, the 2011 Mouton-Rothschild is probably the "weakest" of the releases between 2008 and 2012, although that would be unfairly disparaging what is a perfectly respectable, if rather unexciting Mouton. Here, it has those graphite and cedar aromas present and correct, the former a little more accentuated and with a light sea-spray note emerging with time. The palate is well balanced with cedar and a slight peat-like note infusing the black fruit, rigid in its youth but nicely delineated. As I discerned out of barrel, what it lacks is that peacock's tail on the finish, bolting out of the exit door before you have really got to know each other. Tasted April 2016.

Wine Advocate 96: Tasted at the Mouton-Rothschild vertical in London, the 2012 Mouton-Rothschild clearly has the upper hand over the 2011, if not quite at the level of the 2009, 2010 and what I envisage will be the 2015. There is obviously greater fruit intensity here, as if the contrast has been dialed up a couple of notches. It is quite showy on the nose, preening in its infancy with pure black cherries, graphite and hints of cold slate-like scents, later that hint of seaweed I observed when tasted blind a few months earlier. The palate is beautifully balanced with great vim and vigor. This is a Mouton that will not be put down - vivacious, vivid and delineated with wonderful focus and crucially, impressive persistence on the finish.

James Suckling 97: What a nose of blackberries, blackcurrants, minerals and graphite. Full-bodied, extremely fine and polished. Sexy and ethereal. Harmony. A little salty. Fabulous 2012. Pure silk. Better after 2020, but so wonderful now.

Wine Enthusiast 97: This is a beautifully opulent wine, great Mouton in its richness and succulent fruits. It's combines structure and obvious new-wood aging with hugely ripe black plum and currant flavors. While it is a pleasure to taste now, there is a great tannic structure in the background to give the sense of power and aging potential. Drink from 2024.

Wine Advocate 95: The 2014 Mouton-Rothschild was closed at first when I tasted the wine in bottle with winemaker Philippe Dhalluin. But as it transpires, this First Growth is just toying with you. Initially quite understated, it responds to aeration like a young child peeking from around a corner and then running out, waving its hands. It suddenly hits you with gorgeous black cherries, bilberry, cedar and wilted rose petal. The palate is medium-bodied with a silky smooth entry. This is utterly seductive: a wine without a hair out of place. It is not as powerful or as complex as the 2015 Mouton-Rothschild, yet the precision and focus here is beguiling. It will require five to seven years to absorb the 100% new oak, then it will be an utterly delicious and to use a term employed at en primeur, "cerebral" First Growth that is destined to give two or three decades of pleasure.

James Suckling 99: Incredible iodine, oyster, currants, peat and cedar. Yet subtle. Full body, chewy yet polished tannins and great depth and complexity on the finish. I love the spice and blueberry character on the finish. Vibrant. A sexy style of Mouton.

Vinous 97: The 2014 Mouton-Rothschild is one of the strongest wines from the First Growth in that decade when Philippe Dhalluin nudged quality higher. It has a showstopping bouquet with black fruit laced with freshly rolled tobacco and a touch of forest floor. Wonderful delineation and focus, hints of wild mint developing in the glass. The palate is medium bodied with fine tannins, one of the most elegant Mouton-Rothschild wines of the era, and lovely poise with a dash of black pepper toward the finish that fans out gloriously. Incontrovertibly, it is one of the finest 2014s in Bordeaux. Tasted at Bordeaux Index's 10-Year-On tasting and blind at the Southwold tasting.

Decanter 96: Strongly scented with dried herbs and dark fruits. Streamlined and linear, this is quite straight at this point, a nice initial fruity, juicy burst with high acidity – red cherries and blueberries – with prominent mineral edges to the well integrated tannins. It's very well done, precise, but isn't so impactful on the palate. Missing some expansion a little – stylish but still very serious and focussed, so not as much easy enjoyment on offer as some but still an exceptional wine in the making. Will definitely continue to age and improve.

Wine Advocate 98: The 2015 Mouton Rothschild is a blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc aged in 100% new oak with a mid-July 2017 bottling. Deep garnet-purple colored, this Mouton pulls off an incredibly impactful entrance, emerging from the glass with profound notes of blackberry preserves, plum pudding, crème de cassis and grilled meats, featuring perfectly accessorized accents of sandalwood, cinnamon stick and fenugreek with wafts of dried roses, unsmoked cigars and tilled soil. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is completely packed with rich, ripe black fruits sparked with blue and red fruit undertones and an incredible structure of very firm, very ripe tannins, with seamless freshness and an epically long, earth-laced finish. Possessing striking natural beauty framed by impeccable crafting, this 2015 is a total diva and well worth attention. Give it a good 7-8 years in bottle, at least, and drink it over the next 30+ years.

James Suckling 99: Decadent and rich aromas of black cherries and plums with wet earth and sandalwood. Turns to dried mushrooms. Full-bodied, tight and closed with big, polished tannins, yet this is very closed and shy right now. Despite this, underneath it shows such depth and beauty. Tangy acidity. This is a combination of 2005 and 2009. Try it in 2024.

Vinous 95: The 2015 Mouton-Rothschild has a sense of exuberance on the nose, with fleshy red berry fruit, briary, tobacco and light sous-bois scents. This does not have the intensity of the 2015 Latour at the moment. The palate is very well balanced with pliant tannins. It's harmonious and poised, with fine depth and silky texture, though perhaps it's just missing the knockout blow on the finish. But this has an effortless, sensual personality and it should age with style.

Decanter 98: Initially very dark-fruited. So classically Mouton. Animalistic. All about pencil shavings, cedar and tobacco. Wonderfully classic in the mouth, loaded with red fruit, ample concentration and a fresh, long finish. This will be a great Mouton true to its origins.

Wine Advocate 96+: The 2017 Mouton Rothschild is a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc. Deep garnet-purple in color, it slowly unfurls to reveal notes of warm black plums, baked black cherries, kirsch and freshly crushed blackcurrants with hints of candied violets, cinnamon toast, Ceylon tea and pencil shavings. Medium-bodied, the palate is charged with amazing energy, featuring dynamic black and red fruits and loads of baking spice and mineral sparks, framed by ripe, fine-grained tannins and finishing long and fragrant. Given the intensity of fruit and structure, while this is a relatively elegant Mouton that will be approachable early on, I don’t see it as being short lived. It should give pleasure for a good 40+ years.

James Suckling 98: Extremely perfumed Mouton with currants and crushed berries. Hints of roses and other flowers. Tight and extremely refined with ultra-fine tannins and cool yet rich currant character. The center palate offers sweet cherries and hints of oak. Lightly sweet and sour. Fresh, balsamic note. It firms up at the end. Solid. A blend of 90% cabernet sauvignon, 9% merlot and 1% petit verdot. Try after 2025.

Vinous 93+: The 2017 Mouton Rothschild is a powerful, brooding wine that very much reflects the high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. Not in the mood to show much, the 2017 is also very much closed in on itself. Time in the glass brings out hints of black cherry jam, wild flowers and spice, but that's about it. Readers will have to be patient with the 2017, but I am not sure Mouton will ever be an elegant wine in this vintage. Time will tell.

Decanter 96: Graphite, black chocolate, pencil lead, blackberry and liquorice. This is serious, not holding back on its confident sense of power and depth. 100% new oak coming through as toasted grilled almond aromatics, this has no issue with settling in for the long term and will deliver over the next two to three decades. Easy to love.

Wine Enthusiast 95: The hint of new wood still shows in the aroma of this wine. But on the palate, it has the richness and exuberance that comes with this great estate. Tannins show structure and intensity, bringing out the bold black fruits. Packed with freshness as well as structure, the wine will age well. Drink from 2024.

Wine Advocate 98+: The 2019 Mouton Rothschild is the most dramatic of the Médoc first growths, soaring from the glass with aromas of cassis, blackberries and violets mingled with rich aromas of cedar, cigar wrapper, licorice, loamy soil and spices. Full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, it's deep and powerful, with huge levels of concentration and an ineffably complete, seamless profile, concluding with a long, resonant finish. Plenty of ripe tannin is hidden by its ample core of fruit, and despite its youthful polish, this will require plenty of bottle age to realize all its potential. This blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot tastes in many respects like the 2016 Mouton's more sun-kissed cousin.

James Suckling 99: This is incredibly complex, with all the cabernet descriptors, from mint and lead pencil to blackberry, blackcurrant and menthol. It changes all the time in the glass, just as in the nose. Yet, it remains cool and classy. Full-bodied with very fine, tight tannins that run the length of the wine, carrying on and on and on. Well-framed and compact wine. Never-ending procession of currant, berry and black cherry fruit, together with licorice, earth and just a hint of black truffle. 90% cabernet sauvignon, 9% merlot and 1% petit verdot. Give this until 2028 to show its true greatness.

Vinous 100: Roederer’s 2002 Cristal, from magnum, is just off the charts. What else is there to say? The magnum format is so well-suited to Champagne. As opposed to still wines, which are just aged in glass, for Champagne, the secondary fermentation takes place in the glass. I am convinced that is a major part of what makes Champagne from magnum (or larger) often so compelling. The texture, breadth and overall pedigree here is just remarkable, with layers of apricot, spice, dried flowers and citrus confit that continue to build over time. The 2002 is neither old nor young; it is quite simply eternal. What a great way to start the night. Wow!

Decanter 97: Twenty years is a sweet spot for Cristal said Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon during the Decanter masterclass in New York and this 2002 didn't disappoint. Floral notes and touches of iodine on the nose give both an appealing aroma and minerality balancing the lemon, sea salt, honeysuckle and nutty aspects. Lean and crisp on the palate, this is definitely more on the mineral side right now. The maturity is evident in the light, less immediately thrilling aspect to the acidity and fruit flavours, this is more calm, still full of richness and generous red fruit elements, juicy strawberry and tangy lemon and lime. A lovely, soft caressing Champagne that’s lost its fat. A charming and easy wine which really showcases the terroir.

Wine Enthusiast 98: The wine is dense, concentrated, massive. It has a perfect combination of spice, dark fruits and tannins giving impressive potential. The wine is likely to take many years. Drink from 2027. 

Wine Advocate 100: The 2020 Mouton Rothschild is a striking wine and one that I regretted not purchasing en primeur as soon as it landed in my glass. Offering up complex aromas of minty cassis, pencil shavings, loamy soil, cigar wrapper, espresso roast and violets, it's medium to full-bodied, broad and layered, with terrific concentrated, beautifully refined tannins and a long, penetrating finish. Checking in at 12.8% alcohol, its incipient complexity, ineffable sense of completeness and exquisite balance mark it out as the purists' choice among the trio of 2018, 2019 and 2020. In this vintage, the lots that made it into the blend were largely confined to the core gravel terroirs that represent Mouton's heart, meaning that there's a little less to go around. This was the first vintage overseen by Mouton's new technical director, Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy, and he has begun with a flying start.

James Suckling 100: The purity of blackcurrants, blueberries, creme de cassis, and flowers. Hints of subtle spearmint. Iron. Blood orange. Medium-bodied with a compacted palate, like a cylinder of perfectly ripe fruit and fine tannins. A million layers of tight-grained tannins. It goes on and on. Such freshness and weightlessness to it. Ethereal. New classicism. Modern take on the 1986. 12.79% alcohol. 84% cabernet sauvignon, 13% merlot, 2% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot.

Vinous 99: The 2020 Mouton Rothschild is very clearly one of the great, great wines of the Left Bank in 2020. All the elements are in perfect balance. A wine of total sensuality and nuance, Mouton is all finesse in 2020, all elegance. An explosion of dark cherry fruit, plum, pomegranate, mint and cinnamon are all amplified. From barrel, the 2020 Mouton hinted at greatness. Today, that greatness is evident. The rich, vibrant finish is a thing of beauty.

Wine Enthusiast 99: This is a massive, impressive wine. Dense tannins and succulent black fruits are the outward manifestation of the hidden power of this concentrated wine. The fruit is opulent, full of possibility.

Wine Advocate 94: The 2021 Mouton Rothschild unwinds in the glass with rich aromas of dark berries and minty cassis mingled with espresso roast, dark chocolate, smoked meats and toasty new oak. It has taken on weight with élevage in barrel, exhibiting a full-bodied, rich and layered palate that's impressively muscular and multidimensional, with a deep core of fruit and plenty of sweet, powdery structuring tannin, concluding with a long, discreetly carnal finish.

James Suckling 98: This shows blackcurrants, blackberries, violets, lavender, pencil shavings and hints of metal shavings. Medium- to full-bodied with a firm and juicy character of extremely polished and integrated tannins that caress your palate. Compact and poised with tension and focus. A blend of 89% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot and 1% cabernet franc. 13.1% alcohol. Drink after 2029.

Vinous 96: The 2021 Mouton Rothschild is gorgeous, just as it was en primeur. A wine of stature and vertical build, the 2021 is wonderfully poised from the outset. Beams of tannin add to an impression of explosive lift. Touches of mocha, spice, new leather, cedar and blood orange begin to emerge with a bit of time in the glass. The Grand Vin is pretty imposing at this stage. I would not be in a rush.

Decanter 96: Concentrated and characterful, layered and super-finely presented. Round and full, juicy and textured, more powdery than tense and grippy with almost blackcurrant skin texture, while juicy red and black cherry juice goes through the centre, added to by dried mint, wet stones, clove and liquorice. Serious, with power but poise, all the elements on show – perhaps not quite settled, but individually showing the complexity of this great wine in the making.

Wine Enthusiast 96: Big, rich and sumptuously smoky, this has density and power. Its blackberry tones are structured, with a core of tannins. This very fine wine has all the classic attributes of a Mouton, just slightly lighter.

Wine Advocate 97: The 2022 Mouton Rothschild is one of the most muscular, almost brutally powerful wines of the vintage. Unfurling in the glass with aromas of dark berries, plums and sweet crème de cassis mingled with notions of espresso roast, pencil lead and petroleum jelly, it's full-bodied, dense and concentrated, with huge reserves of tannin and fruit. A blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Merlot that represents 49% of the estate's production, this is a prodigious Mouton that's built for the cellar.

James Suckling 100: Wow. The aromas here are so complete with blackcurrants, asphalt, violets, lead pencil, orange blossoms and black truffles. A perfect nose. It's full-bodied yet tied down with seamless tannins that run the length of the wine and give such a seductive mouthfeel and persistence. A vintage with one of the highest percentages of cabernet sauvignon ever. Quintessential, great Bordeaux with no limits. Drink after 2028.

Vinous 97: The 2022 Mouton Rothschild, built around 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, is a little reticent at first, as I noticed at primeur. It just requires several swirls of the glass to reveal its core of blackcurrant, cassis and violet scents. Underlying crushed stone and iodine notes join the chorus line later. The palate has exquisite balance. It is very concentrated, as you would expect, and perhaps a little more so than out of barrel-layers of black fruit fill and lacquer the mouth. Rich but effortlessly controlled, the 2022 fans out with decadence on the persistent finish. This is an audacious Mouton Rothschild that will offer decades of drinking pleasure.

Decanter 99: Spicy liquorice, bitter chocolate, tobacco, cigar, and aniseed on the nose. Round and bright, with juicy, delicate fruit and velvety tannins. Super concentrated yet graceful, layering ripeness, freshness, and stoniness. Controlled power - soft in texture but packed with Cabernet structure. Starts juicy and creamy, then surges with depth and length. Sweet black fruit meets cool, steely minerality, giving complexity and definition. Black liquorice on a sticky finish. Bold for Mouton but outstanding, this is going to deliver for decades. 3.68pH. Ageing 100% new oak.

James Suckling 98-99: This is the most structured Mouton since the great 2016, with tannins that start slowly and then take off. It’s muscular and toned. It’s full-bodied but doesn’t come across too heavy. It builds up in intensity and goes on and on and on. It just keeps expanding. I took a double take here. 93% cabernet sauvignon and 7% merlot.