Robert Weil Kiedrich Grafenberg Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewachs

“Grand Cru from German soil”, the finest dry wine the estate has to offer; complex, nuanced structure and minerality; a weighty ‘powerhouse’ with provocative fruit aromas and a profound depth; a grand, dry Riesling that embodies the exceptional and distinctive qualities of its terroir, and one which will continue to age and develop for decades to come.

Wine Advocate 95+: Entirely vinified in large, partly renewed oak, the 2020 Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Trocken GG opens deep, pure, refined but also very intense and complex on the highly attractive nose that is full, generous and aromatic and reveals more oak aromas than the premiers crus Klosterberg and Turmberg. On the palate, this is a very elegant, refined and balanced Riesling with a sweeter or rounder taste than the Turmberg (although it's analytically less sweet), but it reveals a similar saline vibrancy. The richer and rounder sensation might be due to the loess-loam components of the Gräfenberg phyllite terroir compared to the shallower terroir of the Turmberg, but richness and power are the nature of the Gräfenberg, which is still fresh and refined enough to represent its coolish terroir character as well.

James Suckling 98: This very youthful GG needs some aeration to open up, but with every swirl of the glass more wild herbs, red-fleshed vineyard peaches and exotic floral nuances emerge. Very concentrated, yet cool and focused, with a very precise interplay of tangerine fruit, wet-stone minerality and a hint of oak that echoes down the valleys. Drinkable now, but best from 2023.

Decanter 96: An intense GG bottling from Kiedrich Gräfenberg, soaring to such heights with fruit, spice and minerality. Aromatics are marked by crushed stone and flaked sea salt, airy herbal tones of lemon beebalm, and a haunting lemon oil depth in the background. The palate glistens with crushed stone, the tingly brilliance of peppery spice, and a perfectly ripe Meyer lemon pulp core. A thing of beauty.

Falstaff 94: A complex, full aroma: grape, white currant, some raisin. Very dense on the palate, packed with mellow phenolics, acidity ideally suited to the body, a mineral-tinged, concentrated yet elegant Gräfenberg.

Wine Advocate 96: The 2022 Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Trocken GG is deep, refined and finely flinty on the elegant nose that develops an intense, ripe fruit aroma of yellow stone fruits. Round, refined and lush on the palate, this is an elegant and enormously mineral Gräfenberg with a fine phenol grip on the finish, which is saline yet still a bit grippy or even dry. This is an excellent Riesling given the challenges of the vintage. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in Kiedrich, August 2025.

James Suckling 97: Deep and ripe nose with fine apricot, mango and papaya aromas. Stunning concentration, the ripeness and creaminess married to a wonderful mineral freshness that keeps this compact wine moving steadily over the palate. Giant, yet very precise finish. Great aging potential. Drink from release.

Vinous 96: The 2022 Riesling Kiedricher Gräfenberg Grosses Gewächs has a notion of tangerine alongside yellow plum, followed by yellow plum skin and citrus peel. The palate is juicy, almost bouncy, with Reine Claude's vividness, pervaded by zesty, ripe lemon resting on a gentle layer of yeast. It's concentrated, almost allowing glimpses of more distant, tropical fruit, yet all within that frame of citric freshness. It shows tautness, linearity, direction and energy with Weil's drive, yet it is always cool and dynamic. We only see a fraction of this power at this point, but it is undoubtedly there. Subtle citrus perfume denotes elegance, but the muscular elegance gets you. Wow. It was bottled in early August 2023 for release in September 2024. (Bone-dry)

Decanter 94: A concentrated intensity from one of the two principal estate sites for Robert Weil. Kiedrich Gräfenberg is on a southwest-facing ridge with an extremely steep slope of up to 60%. The cardamom spice and dried wildflowers balance the bright fruit notes of Meyer lemon pulp and nectarine flesh in the wine's effusive aromas, underlined by a note of saline sea air. The palate is dynamic with vibrant acids carrying waves of stone fruit flesh, smoky grilled lime, crushed granite minerality and crunchy sea salt. Delicious and driven.