Vieux Chateau Certan

2012

Wine Advocate 95: Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux tasting. The 2012 Vieux Château Certan has a potent, smoke, cooked meat, Cabernet Franc-scented bouquet that is beautifully defined - quintessentially Pomerol. You want typicité? Come right here. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, quite gentle as it sashays across the mouth. The acidity is very well judged and leads to an elegant tobacco tinged finish. Alexandre and Guillaume Thienpont have produced one of the finest wines of the Right Bank in 2012, one that is up there with the greats.

James Suckling 95: Slightly leafy on the nose, showing eucalyptus leaves, earthy minerality, mushrooms and leather. Yet there’s a fresh note of anise, too. Classic vintage here, with silky, relatively lighter tannins, medium body and a slightly more rustic finish, though enriched with dark-chocolate and cold-coffee details. Drinkable now, but will last for at least another decade.

Vinous 91: The 2012 Vieux Château Certan comes from a late harvest picked from October 1. The Cabernet is potent on the nose, not dissimilar to the 2008 with Montecristo cigars and undergrowth infusing the black fruit. Certainly, this is pretty Left Bank in style. The palate is well-balanced with a slightly herbaceous, peppery entry. Espresso notes infuse the black fruit with a structured finish. I just feel the oak a little here and find more composure on the 2011 by direct comparison.

Decanter 97: A blooming bouquet backed by a splendid core of multi-faceted fruit give this real class, which Left Bank wines often lacked in 2012. The highest proportion of Merlot (87%) since the 1985 vintage, which third-generation owner Alexandre Thienpont described as a ‘glass of perfume’. Still improving.

2020

Wine Advocate 97: A blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc, the 2020 Vieux Château Certan bursts with aromas of blackberries, sweet spices, rose petals, orange zest, burning embers and violets framed by a deft application of creamy new oak. Medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, it's rich and layered, with a more broad, unctuous profile than the pure and refined 2019, concluding with a long, resonant finish. This is more immediate out of the gates than the 2019, and I suspect it will not prove quite as long lived, but it is a terrific effort from the Thienpont family.

James Suckling 99: Real Pomerol here with black berry, chocolate, hazelnut and walnut aromas and flavors. Dark fruits. Crushed stone. It’s full and intense with great focus. Powerful yet so balanced and intense. Juicy center palate. Fantastic length. Great clarity.

Wine Enthusiast 97: This wine has a surprising amount of Merlot in the blend for the estate. That gives richness and density to a wine that is already structured and stylish. The dense texture promises long-term aging.

2021

Wine Advocate 95+: The 2021 Vieux Château Certan has turned out beautifully in bottle, unfurling in the glass with aromas of dark berries, cigar wrapper, black truffle, burning embers, mint and rose petals. Medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with impressive density, beautifully refined tannins and a long, gently vanillin-inflected finish, it's a blend of 77% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon, the latter imparting complexity and structure. The result is somewhat reminiscent of the estate's exceptional 2011, one of the wines of that unheralded vintage.

James Suckling 97: This wine is graceful and delicate, with a clarity and beauty showing aromas of mushrooms, bark, forest floor and violets. Cherries and raspberries, too. Medium-bodied with silky, ultra-fine tannins, it runs long and true. Very crunchy and full of acid tension, this has historical character but is still modern and brilliant. 77% merlot, 20% cabernet franc and 3% cabernet sauvignon.

Vinous 98: The 2021 Vieux Château Certan may very well be the wine of the vintage on the Right Bank. Intensley aromatic and nuanced, with exceptional balance, the 2021 is super-classy right out of the gate. Naturally, it doesn't have the richness or density of most prior vintages, but it more than makes up for that with its sublime harmony and overall freshness. All the elements are so well proportioned. Readers should plan on cellaring this beauty for at least another handful of years.

Wine Enthusiast 96: A beautifully dense wine blending Merlot and 23% of both Cabernets, with black spice and cedar aromas. There is a straight line of acidity and tight spice followed by pure black-currant flavors. Drink from 2028.

2023

Wine Advocate 94-96: The 2023 Vieux Château Certan bursts from the glass with demonstrative aromas of dark berries, pencil shavings, violets mingled with notions of burning embers, iris, crushed mint and black tea. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and sensual, with a gourmand attack that segues into a layered, enveloping mid-palate, it's polished and perfumed, with a sweet core of fruit and a long, gently oak-inflected finish. This year's blend of 82% Merlot and 18% Cabernet Franc checks in at 14% alcohol and a pH of 3.74.

James Suckling 97-98: A very fine and polished young VCC with subtle density and a racy backbone of tannins. Compact with well-toned muscles and a persistent finish. Very silky. Really grows at the end. 82% merlot and 18% cabernet franc.