Domaine de la Romanée Conti La Tâche Grand Cru

2015

BH 98: As is often the case in its youth, this easily possesses the most aromatic breadth of any wine in the range with an utterly kaleidoscopic nose that incorporates notes of Asian spice box elements, rose petal, lavender, lilac, orange pekoe tea and sandalwood. There is superb richness to the powerfully constituted flavors that possess outstanding delineation and intensity while displaying perhaps even more minerality than usual, all wrapped in a mildly warm finish that slowly fans out as it sits on the palate. This is one classy wine that manages to do what only the greatest of burgundies can, which is to wow you with its power without weight mouth palate impression. And if all of this weren't enough, the refinement and poise here are nothing short of riveting. While I am very careful when it comes to proclaiming that such and such a vintage of La Tâche will go down as one of the all-time greats, the 2015 version appears to have the potential to be one of them. Time will of course be the final arbiter but the underlying material is so good it's difficult to be less than super-enthusiastic.

2014

BH 96: Fireworks in a glass would be the operative description of the super-fresh nose of the 2014 La Tâche and while it's not necessarily spicier or more floral than the Riche, there is a broader range of elements present and in particular better overall aromatic depth along with more red fruits than dark. The imposingly powerful and tautly muscular flavors possess outstanding mid-palate density while simultaneously offering excellent delineation on the intensely mineral-infused, youthfully austere and very firmly structured finish that just goes on and on. While I suspect that this will drink reasonably well after only 15 to 18 years of bottle age note well that if you want to drink it when fully mature it will require in the range of 20 to 25 years of cellaring.