Ao Yun (OWC6)

2022

Wine Advocate 96: The 2020 Ao Yun is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot, 6% Syrah and 6% Petit Verdot, with the fruit being sourced from Ao Yun’s four villages in order of rising altitude and percentage terms as follows: 10% from Xidang, 18% from Sinong, 38% from Shuori and 34% from Adong. The wine has a very deep purple appearance and sports a beautifully complex nose of lifted, perfumed dark fruit—cassis, bramble, black cherry, black plum, blueberry, mulberry—with herbaceous notes of mint, green bell pepper and sage, these primary elements marrying beautifully with some subtle, new oak notes of clove, toast, smoke and vanilla. Like the Village Cru red wines, this was matured for 12 months in 30% new, small-format French oak with 30% in older wood and the remainder in Yunnanese stoneware jars. On the palate, this is very full-bodied with super-ripe coating and fine-grained tannins with vibrant acidity—this comes naturally at 3.35 pH—and well-integrated 13.5% alcohol, providing the platform for the concentrated dark fruit and sweet and savory pyrazine and new oak notes. While this wine does not have the immediate "generosity" or sumptuousness of the 2019 vintage, it is undeniably elegant, polished and powerful in its own vintage expression.

Decanter 96: Smells wild and strong on the nose, some elements of blackcurrants, damsons and plums, but darkly cool not overly ripe. The meaty, wild Syrah elements come through (even at just 6% of the blend) with a touch of florality from the Cabernet Franc (19%). Really vivid bright purple in the glass too, almost fuschia pink on the rim. Thick and unctuous, this has weight and body with a fleshy, plump texture, almost chewy but bouncy too so you get strength and clear structure but with lift and brightness from the pure fruit and high acidity. I love the styling, feels controlled and purposeful. Suave but still muscular, confident. It's a big wine with plenty to say. Very long and keeps the intensity all the way through. I like the cool mint eucalyptus note on the finish reminding you it's full of Cabernet. I'd still struggle to say where it's from but it's very good. 6% Syrah and 5% Petit Verdot complete the blend.

The Drink Business 97: A fascinating and deeply engaging wine. Graphite. Black pen ink. Plump wild blueberries. Loganberries. Brambles. A wild gamey meatiness too. Lièvre à la royale. Violet. Lavender. Cedar. I find this very profound and rather beautiful aromatically in its slight austerity and restraint. There is almost something a little Cheval Blanc-like in its character. A glorious shape and texture in the mouth. Architectural. This is quite tight horizontally yet more elongated vertically – a lozenge on its side! Gracious and glacial at first but then bright and dynamic, charged with energy as if fired from below. Fresh. Exciting. Long and perhaps the best vintage yet of this unique wine.

Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux 97: The resculpting of Ao Yun over the past few years continues here, wiith medium to full intensity ruby colour coupld with nuanced fragrant spices of rosemary, bay leaf and sage that burst out of the glass. Spring flowers, turmeric, bright berry fruits and a slow and steady lift. Feels like an entirely different expression of classic Bordeaux varieties (Syrah aside) that highlights the impact of altitude, and just brings a ton of personality to the glass. Maxence Dulou winemaker. Shorter ageing also, in a bigger variety of containers - 30% new barrel, 30% neutral barrel, 40% stoneware jar for 12 months followed by 5 months in stainless steel vats. Only 59% of grape harvested entered in Ao Yun, with the rest going into the new village wines, and in this vintage 72% of the blend Ao Yun blend is from the two coolest villages of Adong (2600m) and Shuori (2500m).