Penfolds St Henri Shiraz (Limited Release HORSE Edition Giftbox)

St Henri is a time-honoured and alternative expression of Shiraz, and an intriguing counterpoint to Grange. It is unusual amongst high quality Australian red wines as it does not rely on any new oak. Released for the first time by Penfolds in the early 1950s (first commercial vintage 1957), it gained a new lease of life in the 1990s as its quality and distinctive style became better understood. Proudly, a wine style that hasn’t succumbed to the dictates of fashion or commerce. St Henri is rich and plush when young, gaining soft, earthy, mocha-like characters with age. It is matured in an assortment of old large vats that allow the wine to develop, imparting minimal, if any oak character. Although a small proportion of cabernet may sneak into the blend, the focal point for St Henri remains shiraz.

Winemaker notes

2021: A duo of wild cherry and pomegranate fruits accompanied by hints of golden custard tarts and toasted sourdough, imparting additional layers of complexity and allure. Ironstone minerality asserts itself, guiding the palate towards a refined savouriness while instilling a sense of mouthwatering tension within each sip. The tannins are masterfully integrated; they are tightly knit yet exude a velvety texture that promises to soften beautifully over time. Careful cellaring will be rewarded.

2021

Wine Advocate 97: I recently tasted a vertical of St Henri from 1958 through to this 2021, and just behind the 1962 and 2010, the 2021 was among the top five best St Henri's ever made. The 2021 St Henri Shiraz has succulence and balance, and it is fresh and unencumbered by heavy oak characters via the adherence to large-format, seasoned oak and the blessing of the season. The tannic density and weight of the wine comes from the fruit rather than the vessel, and this will hold it is great stead over the decades to come. This was sourced from Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale. 2021 was a lovely season in South Australia; the lead-in was wet from August onward, replenishing the arid ground from the past three vintages of drought. The season was long and warm but rarely, if ever, hot, with well-timed rain events that allowed producers, for the most part, to avoid viticultural pressure. Having explained this, I have found many of the reds from 2021 to be really quite ripe—it seems to me that many people had the opportunity to leave fruit on the vine, and many did. This feels to buck that trend. Excellent. 14.5% alcohol, sealed under natural cork.

Vinous 94+: This 2021 St Henri blend of Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale Shiraz is a charmer but understated. A fresh and bright expression of dark cherry and roasted spice flavors, which are seamless and moreish. A little more reserved than usual, with solid, measured and well integrated tannins before opening out to a savory finish. An elegant vintage that may surprise in time.

Decanter 94: Coined as Penfolds’ 'counterpoint to Grange’, St Henri has a more reigned-in character but still has all the density and richness you expect from this benchmark Australian Shiraz producer. It is opulent and luxurious in style, with warming notes of kirsch, coca cola and sweet spices, underpinned by a savoury smoked-meat character and lasting finish.

Falstaff 97: Intense fruit on the nose, with notes of plum and dark berries, complemented by savoury nuances, liquorice and hints of dried fruit. Intense on the palate too, with the intense berry fruits again, almost sweet, and a very long, juicy finish. A food wine that tastes surprisingly good when young but will mature over many years.