Te Mata Coleraine

2022: Coleraine ’22 harnesses the energy and complexity of Te Mata cabernet sauvignon, on show at its highest level since the first Coleraine in 1982.

The beautiful floral aromas of lavender, violet, plum and blackcurrant, are all in orbit around the wine’s dark savoury core of tightly wound graphite, nori, coffee grounds, vanilla and tobacco.  The palate is intensely concentrated, with a superbright tension building freshness and precision as layer upon layer of fine polished tannins give
pinpoint detail alongside signature, exacting, levels of finesse.

Coleraine ‘22 is a modern reprise of what make’s Coleraine iconic, a wine balancing past and future, heritage and innovation. This is a statement wine, one that lingers both on the palate and in the mind.

Wine Advocate 98: The 2023 Coleraine comprises 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. This cuvée is not made to a recipe, rather as a selection of the best from each vintage. In 2023, due to the weather induced by Cyclone Gabrielle, which landed in early February (the second or third), the strongest performer was the Cabernet Sauvignon due to bunch architecture, small berries, thick skins and, in this case, the low-vigor rootstocks and the chicory in between the rows. Te Mata invests heavily into research and development in the vineyards, which really assists in a vintage like 2023, which imposes challenges. The elevation in all aspects of this wine from the already tremendously impressive Awatea is significant. Here, the tannins have a finer grain, the fruit is more persistent and the package is far more integrated and seamless. With raspberry, iodine, crushed shells, nori, pressed flowers, new lead pencil, tobacco, bramble and cassis, it is magnificent. Raw cocoa and the gentle and subtle creep of game/gristle/blood and sweet marrow indicate its direction later in life. I love this wine. I think I write that every time I taste it. 13.5% alcohol, sealed under natural cork.

James Suckling 97: This really changes in the glass with blackcurrants, kelp, umami, graphite, fresh mushrooms and roses. Iodine and lemon rind as well. Extremely expressive. It’s medium-bodied with lovely finesse and fine, caressing tannins that are very long in the finish. Firm yet open-grained tannins. Needs time to come together but already a beauty. 80% cabernet sauvignon, 15% merlot and 5% cabernet franc. Best after 2028.

Vinous 94: The 2023 Coleraine is a young yet age-worthy Cabernet-dominant blend that shows layer of flavor, concentration, integration and length in the face of the wrath of nature. Despite a cyclone that swept through the region in the second week of February, these late-picked varieties have demonstrated incredible resilience. It is a massive surprise to see how good the 2023 is. Expect plenty of nuance here: initially the nose offers up pure cassis fruit and tapenade, smoky tobacco and bay leaf, while flavors of integrated cedar oak and the merest hint of violet follows on the long, elegant finish. Richness of substance and fine gravelly tannins currently require a decent hunk of meat, but you'd be better off laying this down for at least five years.

Wine Enthusiast 97: 2023 will forever be remembered in the North Island as the year of Cyclone Gabrielle. Fortunately, Te Mata's vineyards escaped relatively unscathed. In fact, Coleraine, the historic estate's top wine, is singing. Unmistakably Cab aromas of blackcurrant, dried mint, pencil lead and rhubarb are out in full force from first sniff. The palate shows precision and balance with a beautiful rush of tangy, current-y acidity tempered by fine, dusty tannins. It's perfumed and svelte with charm and appeal now, but a promise of even greater things to come.

James Suckling 98: Superlative balance. Aromas of blackberries, currants, blueberries, graphite and dark tobacco with hints of bark, violets and licorice. Medium-bodied with ultra-fine velvety tannins and a seamless, cashmere texture. So caressing and polished. Bright and vivid at the end. 58% cabernet sauvignon. 31% merlot and 11% cabernet franc. Will be released March 1. You could drink this tonight and enjoy it, but it will age.

Vinous 95: The 2024 Coleraine is young and rich but naturally refreshing. Vanilla and cedar oak flavours are prominent in its youth, but its density and richness of fruit will take over with time in bottle. The tannins are abundant but resolved and delectable, even at this early stage. A small splash of Cabernet Franc enhances the midweight, substantial palate with graphite notes, floral lift and a plait of tension. The long and very satisfying finish leaves black plum, black olive, licorice and vanilla tones. Having recently tasted the 1982 blind, I think it's safe to assume that the 2024 has decades and decades ahead of it, but will find its sweet spot in 15-25 years. This is a wine to get to know over several years rather than several glasses.